Archive | August 2022

The Lost Synagogue of Aleppo

The Lost Synagogue of Aleppo


MATTI FRIEDMAN


Visitors at the Israel Museum in Jerusalem experience the Great Synagogue of Aleppo in virtual realityZOHAR SHEMESH
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A new virtual reality exhibit at the Israel Museum brings to life the Great Synagogue, and the great collapse of multinational Jewish life.

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One day in 2016 the end came, again, for the Great Synagogue of Aleppo. Fighting between the Assad government and rebels had ripped the ancient city apart and hundreds of thousands of people were already dead across Syria, so it doesn’t seem right to dwell on the loss of a building—but this was, perhaps, the greatest building in the Jewish world. Prayers began at the site, scholars believe, around the fifth century CE, maybe earlier, and continued until the 1990s, when the last Jews left the city. There were breaks only for events like the Mongol invasion that leveled much of Aleppo in the 13th century, for the occasional devastating earthquake, and for the Arab riots and arson that accompanied the United Nations vote on Israel’s creation in 1947. No other synagogue on earth embodied 15 continuous centuries of Jewish life and memory.

Since the community’s final departure, the building had been empty but intact, guarded by the regime, upkeep covered discreetly by members of the Aleppo Jewish diaspora. But photos after the 2016 fighting showed pulverized stonework, a courtyard full of rubble, twisted iron railings, and Hebrew engravings blasted off the walls. The Great Synagogue was gone.

And yet last week I walked past the high bimah, 20 steps off the ground, illuminated by Syrian sunlight pouring through the colonnades. I saw a leaky pump in the courtyard surrounded by gleaming puddles, and took in the paint peeling on the columns and the deep medieval windows. There was no damage. It was all so vivid I put out a hand to touch a wall, forgetting that it wasn’t real. I paused by the famous “sealed ark,” one of the synagogue’s seven repositories for Torah scrolls, which was sealed at a time and for a reason that no one remembers. The ark was home, according to local legend, to a magical snake that appeared on occasion to save the community from its enemies. I read the plaque honoring a donor named Eli Bar Natan, inscribed sometime before the ninth century. I peeked into the Cave of Elijah, a nook that housed the Aleppo Codex, the most perfect copy of the Hebrew Bible, for 600 years.

It was while writing a book about the codex that I heard many hours of recollections of the Great Synagogue from elderly Aleppo Jews, and spent many more hours imagining the place. Many of the memories had nothing to do with ritual: One elderly woman remembered the eerie whispering sounds she heard in the building’s corners as a little girl, and one spot where you could stand to feel a strange breath of air. The synagogue had seen so many human generations, had heard the name of God pronounced and the story of creation repeated so many times that at some point it seemed to have come alive itself.

I crossed from the old part of the building used by the original Arabic-speaking community, the musta’arabin, into the brighter “new” wing built for refugees from Spain after the expulsion of 1492—and then the simulation crashed. A Windows screen popped up and an apologetic technician took my headset; the exhibit wasn’t open to the public yet, and there were still a few glitches in the software. It took a few moments to remember where I was, and that the synagogue was still gone.

Photos taken in November 1947 by an Armenian photographer working for Sarah Shammah, whose family preserved the images in their Jerusalem homeCOURTESY ORA AND AVRAHAM HAVER

One day that month in 1947, just weeks before the outbreak of Israel’s Independence War, Shammah had the ancient building recorded in its entirety by the photographer, whose name has been lost. She seems to have had a premonition. Only days later, on Nov. 29, the United Nations voted to partition the British Mandate territory of Palestine into Arab and Jewish states, upon which a mob in Aleppo rioted and torched Jewish homes, shops, and synagogues, including much of the Great Synagogue. Similar riots in other cities spelled the end for Jewish life in Arab countries. Most of Aleppo’s Jews escaped immediately afterwards, though a remnant limped on for a few more decades under the boot of Syria’s military dictatorship, praying in part of the building. After the 1947 riot, Shammah made it to Jerusalem via Beirut with the negatives. The borders were cut a few months later, and she never saw her city again.

The idea of a virtual-reality resurrection of the synagogue originated not with the museum but with a group of four creative partners, two in Israel and two in Berlin, with backgrounds in film, history, and tech. One of them is Avi Dabach, 50, an Israeli director whose great-grandfather Ezra Dabach was the sexton of the Great Synagogue. Avi’s grandfather grew up in an adjacent apartment and used to tell him stories about the building: “He’d say, I can’t describe how beautiful it is, and when Israel and Syria make peace I’ll take you there on the first plane,” he remembered. The first plane has yet to take off, but five years ago, Shammah’s son Avraham, now 89, showed Avi his mother’s photographs. The partners spent years turning them into a virtual reality simulation. When you put on the headset at the Israel Museum, you’re visiting the synagogue on a specific day in November 1947, the last moment that the community was whole. One scenario allows you to take a tour with a ghostly simulation of Asher Baghdadi, the sexton who took over from Avi’s great-grandfather in 1928. A second scenario is a dramatization of the events around Shammah’s visit to the synagogue as the Middle East imploded around her.

Sarah Shammah

Sarah ShammahCOURTESY ORA AND AVRAHAM HAVER

The precise details of what happened to the real building remain unclear, but it happened as Assad’s army fought to regain control of Aleppo from rebel forces in 2016. The slightly younger Jobar Synagogue in Damascus had already been destroyed two years earlier. There’s a blurry photo showing armed fighters in the Aleppo synagogue, and then there are other photos that show walls riddled with bullet holes and others reduced to rubble. Two years later, two 360-degree images on Google Street View (here and here) show signs of a cleanup, but the building’s a shell.

The recreated synagogues of the Israel Museum, including this one, are beautiful and memorable and deeply sad. The curatorial energy and creativity can’t obscure what all of this tells us, which is that the Jewish world is contracting. The fact is that in the lifetime of our parents and grandparents, Jews were eradicated in much of the Christian world and erased from the world of Islam. It’s not just the Great Synagogue of Aleppo—it’s the houses of worship in Tataouine or Oran, the synagogues of Galicia and Romania, the ones in grand Italian towns and obscure Polish hamlets. And what about Cochin, or Kaifeng, or, for that matter, Knoxville, the Carolinas, and the Caribbean? Much of the tenuous, beautiful, and strange variety of Jewish life that existed a century ago is gone. The vast majority of what remains plays out in the state of Israel and a few big cities in North America.

The new simulation had the effect of bringing the Aleppo synagogue to life for a moment. The impression of being in that building, even if it was only virtual, was so potent for me that it still hasn’t quite worn off. Everyone who can visit the simulation at the Israel Museum should go. But tech has a way of showing us something and leaving us hollow. When the headset came off, I was left with the same feeling I’ve had when reconnecting online with a friend from the past—the knowledge of what existed not long ago, and how truly gone it is.


Matti Friedman is a Tablet columnist and the author, most recently, of Who by Fire: Leonard Cohen in the Sinai.


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Are We Willing to See the Truth?

Are We Willing to See the Truth?

Pini Dunner


Jews from Macedonia who were rounded up and assembled in the Tobacco Monopoly transit camp, before deportation to the Treblinka extermination camp, in Skopje, Macedonia, March 1943. Photo: United States Holocaust Memorial Museum.

A good friend of mine sent me a YouTube link this week with an accompanying message: “You need a lot of time for this, but if you are into Holocaust history, this is one of the most incredible documentaries I’ve ever seen — and I’ve seen many.”

The documentary is “Shtetl,” produced and directed by Marian Marzynski — a Polish Jew spirited out of the Warsaw ghetto as a child, who then survived by being masqueraded as a Christian orphan and cared for by nuns.

The film released by PBS in 1996, was originally envisaged as a documentary that would reveal the true nature of Jewish life in a minor Polish town, or “shtetl” — one that is now devoid of any Jews or Jewish character. For this purpose, Marzynski traveled to a backwater agricultural hamlet called Bransk (or Breinsk), about 40 miles southwest of Bialystok in eastern Poland, near the border with Belarus.

For his first visit to Bransk, Marzynski was accompanied by a retired sales writer and mob-history geek, American-born Nathan Kaplan, whose parents and grandparents came from Bransk. Their local contact, a mild-mannered 29-year-old gentile history buff, Zbyzsek Romaniuk, had been corresponding with Kaplan.

In response to Kaplan’s initial letter of inquiry, Romaniuk wrote: “There are no Jews in Bransk today, but I am a Pole whose family has lived here for generations, and I have an interest in Jews — I’d like to help you.”

Encouraged by this response, Kaplan quickly wrote back. “I am trying to recreate my family’s life in Bransk … I know my grandmother washed clothes in the river and walked on a cobblestone path to the mikvah. My mother was born in a one-room cabin. Would you know how those homes were furnished? Did people sleep on straw? Were there wolves in the forest? Were there bandits in the forest?”

“Dear Nathan,” came the reply, “your mother lived in very interesting times. Bransk had three marketplaces. Polish farmers from 60 villages sold corn, potatoes, eggs, horses, cattle, sheep, and poultry. In the market square, all the houses belonged to the Jews. In those houses, Jewish tailors, shoemakers, bakers, and sellers of fancy goods had their shops.”

Troublingly, Romaniuk has been targeted by local residents for his interest in the Jewish history of Bransk.

Before the onset of the Holocaust, Bransk not only had a thriving Jewish community, but Jews actually made up 60% of the town’s population. The community was mainly non-Hasidic, although there was a small Hasidic contingent.

In 1907, Rabbi Shimon Shkop (1860-1939) — later the famed spiritual leader of Lithuanian Jewry as the chief rabbi of Grodno — opened a yeshiva in Bransk together with Rabbi Ahron Shmuel Stein, whose son Rabbi Pesach Stein (1918-2002) was a post-war rosh yeshiva at the Telz yeshiva in Cleveland.

Although Bransk initially fell under Soviet control as a result of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact, after the Nazi invasion of Russia in 1941 a Jewish ghetto was created, and in November 1942, all its inhabitants were dispatched to their deaths at Treblinka. In total, between 2,500 and 3,000 Bransk Jews were murdered by the Nazis.

And although Marzynski and Kaplan’s initial intent was to gather information about Jewish life in Bransk while it had thrived before the Holocaust, very soon their inquiries took them in a totally different direction: a quest to find out which local residents were actively involved in the German effort to round up and kill Jews, and which residents assisted Jews in their attempt to survive.

Many of the Jew-betraying protagonists were still very much alive when the documentary was being filmed, and they spoke freely on camera — some of them defensively, many of them less so.

One old man tells Marzynski, “a Jew was worth as much as a rabbit is worth to a hunter; when a German saw a Jew, he shot at him like he would shoot at a rabbit — it gave him pleasure every time.” And the way he said it sounded like the pleasure was not just confined to the German.

Multiple survivor testimonies at Yad Vashem had mentioned the Hrycz brothers, who would offer Jews shelter, then grab their belongings, bludgeon them to death, and throw their bodies into the river.

One of the brothers was still alive, and Marzynski visits him together with Kaplan. “I’ve heard a lot about you,” Marzynski tells him. Hrycz admits to having been arrested for killing Jews after the war, but claims it was someone else, not him, who committed the crimes.

And so it goes on, one old Pole after another: one a brazen looter, another one a blatant antisemite peddling antisemitic tropes as some kind of justification for what happened to their neighbors and “friends” — people who they did business and drank with, and in whose homes they lodged on market days, whose absence, and the vacuum their absence has left, the old Poles have a hard time even acknowledging.

Sometime later, a Bransk survivor — Jack Rubin of Baltimore, a.k.a. the “Goose King of Bransk” — returns to Bransk with Marzynski for the first time since the war ended. Rubin survived the Holocaust with the help of Bransk gentiles — whom he meets for the first time after a 50-year break and movingly acknowledges. But he also encounters raw antisemitism from a man who makes the ludicrous claim that Rubin’s father had cheated him out of two zlotys.

And throughout it all, Zbyzsek Romaniuk is a witness, trying to make sense of his local history in light of the countless revelations that indicate that his townspeople were at best passive accomplices, and at worst willing accessories, in the murder of Bransk’s Jewish population.

In one fascinating scene, Romaniuk engages with high-school kids in Israel after they have just returned from a Poland trip. It is absolutely clear that he — someone who is clearly not a Jew-hater — is unwilling or unable to acknowledge the egregious collaboration by so many Bransk residents in particular, and Poles in general, in the willful extermination of their Jewish neighbors, notwithstanding the compelling evidence he sees every step of the way.

Stunningly, in a letter to Marzynski after the documentary first aired, Romaniuk wrote: “this film is your vision of events, with which I cannot fully agree … It is too bad that the subject of Shtetl was mainly reduced to the Holocaust as executed by the Poles.” Remarkably, he adds: “Why does no one in the film ask the Jews if in a reversed situation they would help the Poles? I have asked such a question, and nobody said: ‘definitely yes’ — and some said: ‘probably not.’”

For me, Romaniuk’s blinkered vision is almost as disturbing as the Polish collaboration. Sometimes, you can observe something in front of your eyes, and you still don’t see it. The evidence is there, but your brain is in denial, finding rationalizations that blunt its edge or simply airbrush it away. No amount of demonstrable, empirical proof will make any difference.

This is why every one of us needs to be on constant guard and conscious of this human failing — otherwise we can far too easily fall into the trap of denial as the go-to option, finding it so much easier than the pain which can accompany a vision of truth.

This explains the first word of Parshat Re’eh (Deut. 11:26): רְאֵה אָנֹכִי נֹתֵן לִפְנֵיכֶם הַיּוֹם בְּרָכָה וּקְלָלָה — “See, this day I set before you blessing and curse.” The word “re’eh” — “see” — seems superfluous. But it isn’t.

Moses needed the nation to know that their eyes can lie to them, and that unless they are willing to see — really see — what is in front of them, what seems like a blessing might easily be a curse, which can result in the downfall of everything they consider important and precious.

Nothing has changed, least of all human nature. And “Shtetl” brought that reality into the sharpest focus.


The author is a rabbi in Beverly Hills, California.


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Odkrywanie żydowskiego dziedzictwa. Relacja z seminarium edukacyjnego dla nauczycieli z Izraela


Odkrywanie żydowskiego dziedzictwa. Relacja z seminarium edukacyjnego dla nauczycieli z Izraela

Olga Szymańska


Dwa tygodnie od rozpoczęcia cyklu seminariów dla izraelskich nauczycieli, przewodników i archiwistów w Tel Awiwie, spotkaliśmy się w Warszawie w ramach drugiej części szkolenia. Czterodniowy maraton wykładów, warsztatów i spacerów trwał od 26 do 29 lipca 2022 roku.
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Przy powitaniu Dyrektor Żydowskiego Instytutu Historycznego Monika Krawczyk wyraziła nadzieję, że lepsze poznanie historii budynku na Tłomackiem 3/5, specyfiki pracy poszczególnych działów, a przede wszystkim nawiązanie znajomości z pracownikami Instytutu sprawi, że wszyscy będą czuli się w ŻIH jak w domu. Wizytę rozpoczęliśmy od zwiedzenia wystawy stałej o twórcach i dokumentach Podziemnego Archiwum Getta Warszawskiego – „Czego nie mogliśmy wykrzyczeć światu”, po której oprowadzała Olga Szymańska z Działu Edukacji. Była to okazja do zaprezentowania metody interpretacji dziedzictwa stanowiącą oś narracji edukatorów i przewodników ŻIH.

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Seminarium dla nauczycieli z Izraela, fot. Grzegorz Kwolek (ŻIH) (57).jpgFot. Grzegorz Kwolek (ŻIH)

Naszą ofertę edukacyjną skierowaną do młodzieży i dorosłych przedstawił kierownik Działu Edukacji dr Bartosz Borys. Podkreślił genius loci Tłomackie 3/5, stanowiący punkt wyjścia do opowieści nie tylko o Zagładzie Żydów, lecz również o ich wielowiekowej obecności w Warszawie i Polsce. Podczas spaceru „Niezatarte ślady getta” uczestnicy zobaczyli takie wyjątkowe dla dziejów „dzielnicy zamkniętej” adresy, jak dawne Leszno 13 (siedziba Urzędu do Walki z Lichwą i Spekulacją, obecnie al. „Solidarności” 93), nieistniejące Leszno 18 (adres Emanuela Ringelbluma) oraz siedzibę teatru Femina (dawne Leszno 35, obecnie al. „Solidarności” 115). Odwiedzili upamiętnienie kładki nad ulicą Chłodną i zobaczyli jedne z nielicznych ostańców zabudowy getta – kamienice przy ulicy Waliców.

Drugiego dnia uczestnicy seminarium zwiedzili wystawę czasową „Tańczący 1944. Mieczysław Wejman z dr. Bartoszem Borysem, a kurator z Działu Sztuki Michał Krasicki opowiedział o kolekcji zbiorów malarstwa i rzeźby należącej do ŻIH, sposobach, w jaki artefakty trafiały do Instytutu, pracy konserwatorów, historyków sztuki i Działu Digitalizacji. Agnieszka Reszka, kierowniczka Archiwum, pokazała oryginalne dokumenty z kolekcji Instytutu i wyjaśniła, jak korzystać z naszej bazy danych. O tym, jak w Polsce dbamy o synagogi, cmentarze i inne zabytki żydowskiego dziedzictwa materialnego, opowiedziała dyrektor Monika Krawczyk. Wskazała również, jakie kroki prawne i inne działania należy podjąć, aby ocalić to, co jeszcze pozostało.

Podczas spaceru z dr. Bartoszem Borysem „Impresja o Dzielnicy Północnej” uczestnicy odwiedzili miejsca kluczowe dla pamięci o powstaniu w getcie warszawskim, takie jak kopiec Anielewicza na Miłej 18, miejsce śmierci przywódców Żydowskiej Organizacji Bojowej. Obejrzeli także wykopaliska archeologiczne prowadzone przez Muzeum Getta Warszawskiego w sąsiedztwie Miłej 18.

Ostatniego dnia dr hab. Katarzyna Person (Dział Naukowy) opowiedziała o wielkiej akcji deportacyjnej z warszawskiego getta, a dr Bartosz Borys o dokumentach z obozu zagłady w Treblince znajdujących się w naszych zbiorach dzięki archiwistom i dokumentalistom z konspiracyjnej grupy Oneg Szabat. Po południu Olga Szymańska zabrała grupę na zwiedzanie cmentarza żydowskiego przy ulicy Okopowej w Warszawie, by ukazać łączność tradycji trzech cmentarzy Żydów warszawskich – poza Okopową także nieistniejącej już średniowiecznej nekropolii, zlokalizowanej prawdopodobnie w rejonie współczesnej ulicy Karowej i cmentarza praskiego na Bródnie. Uczestnicy odwiedzili grób Bera Sonnenberga – syna Szmula Zbytkowera (założyciela praskiego rodu) i masowy grób ofiar warszawskiego getta oraz dowiedzieli się, co łączy Ester Rachel Kamińską i „drugą trąbkę świata”, czyli Eddiego Rosnera.

O kolekcji fotografii w Archiwum Ringelbluma opowiedziała w ostatnim wykładzie dr Agnieszka Kajczyk, kierowniczka Działu Dokumentacji Dziedzictwa. Ukazała szeroką panoramę możliwości analizy fotografii robionych w getcie, również tych robionych przez Niemców. Różnice między spojrzeniem sprawcy i obserwatora, nierzadko więźnia getta, szczególnie dobitnie widać na przykładzie zdjęć robionym dzieciom.

Na zakończenie seminarium uczestnicy otrzymali dyplomy, podzielili się wrażeniami i opowiedzieli o swoich planach na przyszłość. Do zobaczenia za rok w Tel Awiwie!

Projekt „Podziemne Archiwum Getta Warszawy – seminarium edukacyjne o losie polskich Żydów w czasie II wojny światowej skierowane do izraelskich nauczycieli i przewodników wycieczek edukacyjnych do Polski” jest organizowany przez Żydowski Instytut Historyczny we współpracy z Instytutem Polskim w Tel Awiwie i Moreshet, Anielevich Memorial – Centre for Holocaust Education and Research i dofinansowany ze środków Ministra Kultury i Dziedzictwa Narodowego w ramach programu „Kultura Inspirująca” na lata 2022-2023.

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Survivors in the Catskills

Survivors in the Catskills

ARMIN ROSEN


A recent gathering of 56 survivors in the Hudson Valley was a painful and uncomfortable reminder that living memory of the Holocaust has nearly run out forever.

Attendees of this year’s annual summer retreat for Holocaust survivors at the Granit Hotel in Kerhonkson, New YorkMARGARITA CORPORAN

The Hudson Valley Resort and Spa rests on a gentle slope facing the near-distant curtain of mountain where the wilderness finally begins. Only the softest pinch of loss intrudes into the landscape’s tranquil domes of spotlit green and emerald shadow. “We’re gonna dedicate rooms to the old hotels that closed down,” exclaimed Yossi Zablocki, newly the proprietor of what he says is the only kosher resort left in the entire Catskills. “There were hundreds of them!”

Before he purchased the former Granit Hotel in Kerhonkson from a Chinese company that planned on tearing down the squat concrete blocks containing its guest rooms, leveling its two dusty theaters and bulldozing a spa and a piano lounge that could one day be transformed into hammams and hookah bars for New York’s vacationing frum community, Zablocki had been the final manager and operator of Kutsher’s, the longest-surviving of the legendary old borscht belt getaways. The family-owned resort was sold in 2013 when the construction of a nearby casino boosted the value of the property, a transaction that marked the final point where present-day cynicism and desperation engulfed whatever was left of the long-ago blend of social aspiration, good taste, and Jewish American particularity that made the Catskills possible.

Or maybe not so final: The phone number that called Kutsher’s for nearly a century now reaches Zablocki’s secretary, he said. As we spoke, a work crew was installing white marble flooring in a lobby that still felt far too large, even with its newly arrived wooden sculptures of local predatory wildlife. A volume of Talmud sat invitingly on a table in the inhabited center region of the cavernous entrance lounge. Peyos’ed children walked by in Crocs and swimming goggles.

For the previous week, in mid-July, it had been Zablocki’s profound responsibility to host 56 New York City Holocaust survivors for a summer program sponsored by The Blue Card, a New York-based organization that has been assisting Jews persecuted by Nazi Germany since 1934. The participants, nearing the end of a full week of entertainment, relaxation, and exercise, were now making challah in one of the ballrooms. At a long table near the center of the faded and windowless hall, the last Jews of prewar Poland and Hungary, most of them women whose sheitels and head-wraps made them look reassuringly younger than they actually were, threaded long tubes of dough and kibbitzed in Yiddish with English undertones. Three of the people here had numbers tattooed on their arms, noted Ruchy Cisner, a young case worker with Nachas Health and Family Network, a Borough Park health care nonprofit focused on the area’s survivors and co-organizer of the retreat.

The Blue Card had organized a media day where it would be possible to see how New York’s last living connections to the Holocaust and to Jewish Europe were being cared for. Each of the 56 survivors present was an education in the nightmares that had shaped every Jew on Earth, but which the triumphalism of modern, multicultural America had been almost designed to obscure. So complete was the post-historical American cocoon of wealth and safety, and so total was postwar society’s break with the legacy of the old country, that it became possible to forget that arrival in America is not a literal rebirth, and that for millions of Jews across hundreds of years, firsthand experience of dispossession, persecution, and murder had been the inescapable context of their lives in the United States.

Ahuva Jakober’s family fled east as the Nazis advanced across Poland, and was lucky enough to make it into the Soviet Union. Luck, in this case, meant getting sent to a forced labor camp in Siberia, and then to Kazakhstan, where there were enough deported Jews to sustain a Polish-language school. She made it back to Poland in 1946, but “they were beating Jews and we didn’t stay.” Next came a displaced persons camp, then a stint in Israel, then most of a lifetime in Brooklyn, where the Polish accent and Yiddish cadences never disappeared.

“That’s it. That’s our life,” the rasping old woman said, summing up this schematic version of the ordeal the Germans, Russians, and Poles had inflicted on her over 70 years ago. “You will be busy—you have what to write.”

That’s it—it’s a straightforward series of events, familiar enough by now. You will be busy—and unless you were there, the true content of such a life can’t possibly be known. And soon enough, no one will know it.

With no sentimentality or possibility of appeal, the extinguished Jewish worlds of Warsaw and Budapest, as well as the campaign of extermination that destroyed them, will soon lose their final living witnesses to an oblivion that is optimistically referred to as “history.” At that point, which gets closer with every passing second, the memory and reality of the Holocaust will be the sole responsibility of people who weren’t there.

It is far from obvious that we are up to the challenge. Soon, Jews and the broader human race will have no living reminders and no living accusers. Instead, we will have to remind and accuse ourselves and each other, an unpleasant activity that most people, and indeed most Jews, might decide they’re better off without.

In the unlikely case that Jewish Europe and the Holocaust aren’t generally remembered in ways that are distorting and self-aggrandizing, they will still be in danger of being conveniently reduced to rhetorical devices or metaphysical thought experiments or a series of trivializing political catchphrases tailored to the latest partisan political ends. This is already happening, with the pace of the vulgarity increasing almost by the week. Anne Frank trends on Twitter with revolting frequency—last week it was because of a Rhode Island sports bar attempting a tasteless joke. The joke was perhaps less appalling than the U.K.’s Anne Frank Trust, which uses the name of a murdered Jewish child to legitimate their blandly universalist women’s empowerment platitude factory, which highlights antisemites like Virginia Woolf and Alice Walker as role models for today’s youth.

The grossness of the ideologues who exploit Anne Frank’s name and image is in turn exceeded by that of the New York-based Olga Lengyel Institute for Holocaust Studies and Human Rights, which endeavors to “educate teachers …about human rights and social justice through the lens of the Holocaust”—a mission it carries out by appropriating the moral capital of Holocaust memory in order to bless newfangled and still-controversial “equity initiatives” introduced in U.S. public schools after the supposed American racial reckoning of 2020, which have a funny tendency to marginalize and exclude living Jews. The institute’s online “About” page and video only very obliquely mention the Jewish identity of the vast majority of the Nazis’ victims.

As long as there are living Jews who experienced the attempted destruction of their people as not just a national but a personal violation—an act of violence that real and identifiable perpetrators inflicted on them and on their societies and on their loved ones—it is still possible to know what the Holocaust really was, and what it destroyed. And it is still possible, within this desperately narrowing span of time, to grasp the full burden of the task we will inherit once the last of the survivors are gone.

Fifty-six survivors in a single room—where to even begin? I mentioned to Cisner, the Nachas case worker, that I had recently been in Krakow, in eastern Poland. Perhaps there was someone in this ballroom who remembered what Kazimierz, the cobblestoned hipster precinct that is now a moving yet slightly ghoulish open-air Jewish heritage museum, had been like before the world ended. “Mrs. Mikel come here,” Cisner beckoned. “He was just in Krakow!”

A formidable older woman in heavy makeup and a burnt-blond sheitel, streaked with tastefully understated ribbons of gray, appeared to float toward us. Erna Mikel had spent six years in various camps and ghettos after the Germans occupied Poland in 1939. First had been the Krakow ghetto, where she was locked inside walls built to look like giant Jewish tombstones, a cruelty followed by the Plaszow and Ravensbruck concentration camps, along with other loci of the German campaign to murder every Jew on Earth. She escaped a death march when a small group of prisoners pretended to relieve themselves by the side of the road and ran off into the forest. Today she has children in Los Angeles, Toronto, and Monsey, New York. One of her daughters is a lawyer. One of her sons she forbade from ever visiting Poland. “And they’re very good children,” she said. “They call me every day.”

Jewish Krakow was her home. Her father was a shoe salesman, a follower of the Belz Hasidic movement who wore a shtreimel on Shabbat. She lived in a house “where I had everything,” including a nanny. “My grandfather lived across the street from the cemetery,” Mikel remembered, clutching Cisner by the wrist and craning her head upward. The centuries-old burial ground in the center of Kazimierz is still the site of several major rabbinic tombs, and its walls now face a row of “traditional Jewish” restaurants and boutique hotels. “They were terrible apartments,” she said. “Only the most honest people lived on this street … they gave their lives away for Yiddishkeit.”

“Nobody can understand—nobody,” Mikel said of what came after. “Because nobody went through what we went through.” I sensed she was not talking about the entire Jewish people but about the survivors themselves—and maybe not about every survivor, either. Maybe just the Polish Jews knew what “we” had been through. Because the Holocaust began in 1939 in Poland, earlier than it did in France or the Netherlands or Hungary, there are very few alive now who can talk about it firsthand. Mikel recalled hearing mass executions at Plaszow. She remembered hiding in a trench her father had dug in the family’s basement. He later died in Mauthausen. “I want to tell you everything,” she said, “but it would take a few days.”

A petite woman with shocks of light orange hair—her natural hair, it would turn out— approached us and pulled up one sleeve, revealing a tattoo on her forearm. Upon her arrival at Auschwitz, Alice Rosenberg, the daughter of a grocer who grew up in a Hungarian-speaking family in present-day Slovakia, was grouped into the camp’s notorious children’s housing, where twins and other potential subjects of medical experimentation were sent. Her jailor was Josef Mengele, a monster of history whom she saw with her own eyes. “I was so little—I don’t take it seriously, the situation,” she said. The dress she wore in the camp was too long for her. “They gave me a big shoe, like a man’s shoe.” She had no underwear. Her head was shaved at Auschwitz, though this did not trouble her. “I never liked my hair, because it was red.” No one else from her family survived the war.

For a surreal moment—I am privileged to be able to call it surreal—Mikel and Rosenberg compared their experiences in the German network of death camps, speaking with increasing speed and animation as each one prodded deeper into the other’s memory, as if they were swapping recollections of their old neighborhoods, or at least of something less sinister than what was actually being discussed. Both remembered that upon arrival at a new camp prisoners were forced to give up everything but their shoes. Potato peels were a known vector of typhus and were only eaten as a last resort. Taking clothing discarded by dead inmates could get you shot, but sometimes you had no other choice. At any moment you could be killed.

“I got married 10 years after the war,” Rosenberg said. “You build a family … but it hurts you. It never heals … We tried our best.”

“We don’t even like to think about it, because we have to live through it,” added Mikel. “We have to have our lives. We have children.”

“See these two ladies?” one of the volunteers asked as she walked by. “They’re our best card players.”

I was suddenly part of a circle of a half-dozen old women. Mikel, the dominant personality of the group, seemed to imply that at six years under the Nazis, she’d had it harder than some of the Hungarians, who only fell under total German control in 1944 and for whom the Holocaust had been brutal and deadly but also comparatively brief. The Hungarians, she remembered, had arrived at the camps with furs, hats, and fancy luggage, “dressed to kill.”

It was a fellow Polish Jew who eventually overtook Mikel in the conversation. Toby Goldberg’s late husband had been on Schindler’s list, and survived the genocide because of the German industrialist. The Nazis had tattooed her husband’s arm, a number with a “KL” prefix, standing for “Konzentrationslager” or concentration camp. “When he wore short sleeves people asked if it was his girlfriend’s name,” she said of those first years in America after the war. Later, an employer offered to pay for its removal. “He said, ‘Oh no, I suffered too much for it. I’m leaving it where it is.’”

The survivors had all lived in the United States for the majority of their lives. Most of them wound up in Borough Park in Brooklyn, one of America’s strongholds of Orthodox Judaism. The sharp edges of their speech, the exclamations and interruptions, the scattered musings on life, the short aphoristic phrases, the serious humor, the humorous seriousness—all of it belongs to the murdered Old World. They spoke the last of the living Yiddish of 20th-century prewar Central Europe, transposed onto American speech with both musical clarity and a poignant note of dissonance, as if the mixture never should have been necessary.

“Before the war, you can call it normal. We went to cheder. There was antisemitism. But it wasn’t that bad,” recalled Ben Kraus, born near Budapest, almost singing each sentence and each clause from the back of his throat, his quiet voice rising and falling to set up the concluding emphasis on each phrase. He wore a black vest and a head-sized kippah. Like many of the other survivors he had piercing and active eyes that somehow looked decades younger than the person to whom they belonged.

Word of the German arrival came hours before Shavuot in 1944, “while my mother prepared for the yontif.” The family fled to an aunt’s apartment while their stove was still burning. Kraus eventually sought refuge in the Glass House, a factory that the Germans recognized as sovereign Swiss territory where over 2,000 people hid for the remainder of the war in conditions of unconscionable squalor and fear.

After the war Kraus arrived in the Williamsburg section of Brooklyn, along with his rebbe and hundreds of other Satmar Hasids who had lived through the European slaughter. There were roughly 20 other young men in his yeshiva class—“survivors, all of them.” After yeshiva Kraus got married and went into the manufacture of women’s belts.

“That was the style then,” added his wife, an energetic woman who was born in Romania and who spoke up to prod her softer-spoken husband throughout the conversation. “Every dress had a belt.”

Lunch was served in the neighboring ballroom—Caesar salad and eggplant Parmesan, with bottles of kosher seltzer water. In the ride up from the city the journalists had been joined by Kosha Dillz, an Israeli American battle rapper and a cast member on MTV’s Wild ’N Out. He had made Holocaust commemoration part of his creative mission, performing regularly in Poland and, at one concert I’d attended, introducing a Holocaust survivor to the son of the late Ol’ Dirty Bastard, from the Wu-Tang Clan.

Dillz often carries a small amplifier, daily life in New York presenting infinite chances for an impromptu rap performance—including, apparently, this lunch. “I decided I’m gonna sing for the ladies in the front row!” Kosha announced over an appropriately unaggressive beat. “They say, Kosha where you feel the heart?” he crooned. “I met some ladies from Borough Park!” A few listeners in front cooperated when he asked them to put their hands in the air. He launched into a verse in Hebrew.

“Speak Hungarian!” joked a man behind me in a tan dress shirt—another survivor, born in Budapest.

What did you think of this unexpected Jewish rap show? I asked. He replied with an Old World deflection, raising his hands parallel to his temples, arching his eyebrows, and spreading his mouth into a smile of cheeky, almost face-consuming vastness. “I should go back to kindergarten!” he declared. If only I could approach this with the wonder and enthusiasm of a child, I think he meant. But, for better and for worse, it’s too late now.

You know, I still dream of Auschwitz … I’m still not finished from there.

The Blue Card program offers a chance for the survivors to spend a week breathing fresh air in a place even more peaceful and quiet than Borough Park, surrounded by family and by each other. They were happy and relaxed and never alone.

Yet there is a pain at the core of what the survivors saw and went through that, while merely notional for us—experienced through the secondhand discomfort of attempted empathy—is tangible and permanent for them. The pain might even be worsening with the passage of time. The survivors were born into a world that no longer exists, and that every day fewer people remember. The killings of nearly 80 years ago are incomprehensibly ghastly, yet they exist at the outer fringes of living memory, meaning the survivors are among the only people for whom those murders are fully real. The further away the horror gets, the harder it is for other people to understand what the survivors went through, and the harder it is to grasp that it happened at all.

As lunch wrapped up, I noticed a vital, athletic-looking, middle-aged woman in secular dress speaking Yiddish to a heavyset older man in a dignified button-up shirt and a dark knit vest and kippa. The man was her father, 96-year-old David Einhorn. He had been born into a religious family in Szeged, in southern Hungary. It was women’s hours at the resort’s outdoor pool, Einhorn’s daughter explained. Perhaps while she swam I could speak with her father. I should record the conversation, she said, in case he said something new.

Einhorn spoke with total command, a sharp bristle of white beard fringing his round face. He was 17 when he arrived at Auschwitz, “a week before Shavuot” in 1944, as he told me. At Auschwitz he and his father, another shtreimel-wearer, were immediately separated from his three brothers, his three sisters, and his mother. “I didn’t know what means the left, what means the right,” Einhorn said of the initial sorting of new arrivals at the camp. At the barracks the German guards left open the possibility that their family members were still alive, but the earlier inmates knew better. “The Polish said, your parents are burning already.”

Einhorn was soon marched to one of Auschwitz’s outlying labor camps, where he was forced to work 12-hour shifts 400 meters underground, in a coal mine excavated using dynamite. After the war, with his family killed and Hungary’s Jews dispersed or destroyed, Einhorn attempted to join the yishuv in Palestine, but spent two years in a British detention camp in Cyprus instead. In the new State of Israel he found a society unsympathetic to what he had been through. “You come home from Auschwitz like you fell from the sky,” he recalled. He had “no parents, no siblings, no nothing.” He worked in the Tel Aviv port, but there was a time when he had to sleep in a public park. He had no living connections to the rest of the world and no one to guide him, just people who seemed eager to evade what he’d been through and what it might represent. For decades, no one asked Einhorn about the numbers on his arm, or seemed to care very much about them.

In New York, Einhorn worked at a kosher butcher shop on the Lower East side and raised a family. Most of a century later, the horrors of the Holocaust are still recent enough to be able to cause nightmares in the people who experienced them, Einhorn included. “You know, I still dream of Auschwitz,” he said. “My mind is still in Auschwitz … I’m still crying. I cry in the night, I cry in the day. I’m still not finished from there.”

It is indecent, not to mention inaccurate, to imply any neat ending to the survivors’ stories, as if living through the Holocaust were a fair price to pay for getting to spend the rest of one’s life in the United States making womens’ belts or selling kosher meat. If one insists on extracting any hope from the experience of the war and the subsequent decades, it shouldn’t come from the inevitable need to salvage meaning from evil, or from the psychological impulse to vulgarize tragedy in order to make it comprehensible, but from forces beyond the merely human, far outside our meager range of understanding.

Throughout Einhorn’s story there were puzzling and terrible hints of a God, subtle in action, mystifying in intent, and undeniably there. In the mines, Einhorn said, a dynamite explosion once sent a chunk of rock careering toward his head, knocking him backward but leaving him miraculously unscathed. “The foreman asked, ‘how did you survive?’ I said, ‘It looks like an angel pushed me out from there.’” As Kol Nidre approached in 1944, Einhorn yearned for something, anything he could eat to prepare for the coming fast. “I went from the barracks and said, this is the day before Yom Kippur. I said God, I have nothing, how am I going to fast tonight? Tomorrow I have to go back to work.” At that moment, he said, a cabbage rolled off the back of a passing supply truck and “arrived to my feet.”

On the cattle car to Auschwitz, Einhorn’s brother said to him: “I don’t know where we’re going, but I’m going to pray to God that you should survive.” And he did. “Everyone was killed,” Einhorn later added. “I’m the only one who survived.”


Armin Rosen is a staff writer for Tablet magazine.


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Lawyers Call on Martial Arts Federation to Reprimand Lebanese Athlete for Refusing to Compete Against Israeli

Lawyers Call on Martial Arts Federation to Reprimand Lebanese Athlete for Refusing to Compete Against Israeli

Shiryn Ghermezian


Lebanese athlete Charbel Abou Daher. Photo: YouTube screenshot.

UK Lawyers for Israel (UKLIF) is asking the International Mixed Martial Arts Federation (IMMAF) to take action against a young Lebanese athlete who withdrew from a youth martial arts competition earlier in August to avoid going head-to-head with an opponent from Israel.

In an email shared with The Algemeiner from UKLFI Director Sam Green to IMMAF leadership, Green called on the sporting organization to punish Daher for his actions. The group of lawyers said the athlete violated a number of the federation’s rules with his behavior, including IMMAF’s code of ethics, equal opportunities policy and code of conduct.

“Only by taking appropriate action against Mr. Abu Daher, relevant members of the Lebanese delegation to the Championship, and the Lebanese IMMAF, can incidents like this be prevented in future, and prevent the IMMAF being drawn into national and international political issues it has no role in,” Green said in the email.

The IMMAF, which says it maintains “a zero tolerance of discrimination and harassment,” according to its code of ethics, has launched an investigation into Daher’s withdrawal.

The organization will “decide on appropriate actions since this is a matter IMMAF takes extremely seriously,” the group’s Communications Director Izzy Carnwath told The Algemeiner on Friday afternoon.

Sayyed Hassan Nasrallah, secretary general of the Hezbollah terrorist organization, praised mixed martial artist Charbel Abou Daher and the Lebanese Mixed Martial Arts Federation, calling the athlete “patriotic” for pulling out of the 2022 IMMAF Youth World Championships in the United Arab Emirates on Aug. 18. Lebanon’s Minister of Youth and Sport George Kallas and the Director General of the Ministry Zaid Khayami also hailed Daher for refusing to compete against a rival from Israel. In a Twitter post, Kallas called Daher a “hero” who “knows how to raise the name of Lebanon and win inside and outside the ring.”

Daher additionally received a hero’s welcome at the Beirut Rafic Hariri International Airport when he returned to Lebanon following the competition in the UAE.

Green further criticized the federation, noting how the IMMAF Youth World Championships was “used as an instrument of propaganda in internal Lebanese politics, including being adopted to advance the agenda of a proscribed terror organization.”

Daher’s actions at the championships in Abu Dhabi took place days before young Lebanese chess champion Nadia Fawaz withdrew from the fourth round of the 28th Abu Dhabi International Chess Festival to avoid playing against a competitor from Israel.


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